From Marrakech

“The further you go, the more you shall see and know.
Medieval Proverb

FROM MARRAKECH: Spending four days with an expert guide and a fearless driver in
Marrakech, I explored many riads within the walls of the ancient Medina and sourced out the best of the souks; this is not an easy task, as Marrakech contains acres of wiggly alleys winding about – jammed with hundreds of haggling vendors. Had it not been for the keen guiding, I would still be roaming the souks, lost! Imperial Marrakech is magical, slightly untamed and exotic. An assortment of handmade goods are sold here: babouche (leather slippers), pottery, metal work, the street vendors offer food, however, you have to be willing to witness live chickens and rabbits being butchered, sheep heads (eyeballs included) are also on display, something for every palate!

It is a site to behold: turban topped cobra charmers squatting on the famous Djemaa el Fna plaza, boys carrying small monkeys – be careful in your admiration, as apparently it is an implied ‘invitation.’ Two adorable monkeys were quickly perched on me; one on my wrist and the other on my opposite shoulder – my comfort level reached an unparalleled high when the shoulder monkey explored my inner ear with one hand and twirled my hair with the other – enough intimacy with the monkey! Naturally, I was expected to pay a few Dirham for the uninvited monkey pleasure.

Marrakech has never lost its exotic flavor and seems to be on the ‘hot’ list of emerging North African style. Cooking schools are readily found here: traditional Moroccan or French cuisine.

La Maison Arabe, where I stayed, offers a half-day cooking class at its off–site professional
kitchen, in a secret gated pool and garden compound. Celebrity boutique riads compete with the fabulous Aman resort, the Amanjena, plopped outside of town, an oasis seemingly in the middle of the desert. I visited many refurbished contemporary riads, decorated in chic and muted tones or traditional Moroccan interiors, all maintaining the time-honored Islamic architecture and characteristics, however many are updated with small central pools. Dar Seven, an elegant, tranquil oasis, is more like a small home with four rooms. It’s sister hotel in Rome, is one of my favorites, La Residenza Napoleone III. Visit a hamman (steam bath) for the latest in spa treatments. The streets of the Medina, the historic old quarter, are teeming with donkey carts, zippy scooters, veiled women, exotic food stalls – a sensory overload, shadowed by the 12th Century Koutoubia Mosque, which in a rather rhythmic, wailing chant, calls men to prayer five times a day; I came to enjoy the soothing call- some semblance of calm to override the chaos of the city streets.

The best of Marrakech will be discovered with my marvelous guide and fearless driver; he with the tales of the complex history, the final, if needed, bargaining point in the souks, a guide to tasting the best spices, finding vendors selling indigenous music, facilitating introductions in a small school in the foothills of the Atlas Mountains, sourcing traditional Moroccan handicrafts, obtaining reservations in the best local restaurants.

What makes anyone travel, especially such a distance? We connect with others, we connect our experiences and attempt to make an abstract connection with our ‘daily routines’, returning home inspired to modify the mundane and retain the transformed clarity which travel often provides – the gift of the travel experience.

One of my favorite recipes from Morocco:
Best in a traditional tagine, but fine in a heavy metal skillet as well.

Chicken Tagine with Apricots and Spiced Pine Nuts
This version epitomizes the spirit of Moroccan cooking, with many flavors in perfect balance and no single ingredient overwhelming the others. The savory, juicy meat is an absolutely delicious combination. Garnish with preserved lemon slices.
Yield: Makes 4 servings Active Time: 1 hr Total Time: 2 hr
ingredients
For tagine
1 whole chicken (about 3 1/2 pound) cut up in pieces
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
3 large shallots, finely chopped (1 cup)
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoon grated peeled ginger
1/4 teaspoon turmeric
1/4 teaspoon sweet paprika
Pinch of saffron threads
1 cup water
2 tablespoons blood-orange preserves or bitter-orange marmalade
1 (2-inch) cinnamon stick
1 thyme sprig
2 cilantro sprigs
6 dried apricots, chopped
1 tablespoon finely chopped cilantro or flat-leaf parsley

For spiced pine nuts
1 tablespoon olive oil
1/4 cup pine nuts
1/4 teaspoon turmeric
1/4 teaspoon sweet paprika
Pinch of cayenne (optional)

Garnish preserved lemon slices
Make tagine:
Pat chicken pieces dry and sprinkle with 1 teaspoon salt.

Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over medium heat until it shimmers, then brown chicken breasts, skin sides down, without turning, 5 minutes. Transfer to a plate. Brown thighs and legs, turning once, 8 to 10 minutes, transferring to plate. Brown wings and backbone in same manner.

Cook shallots in butter with remaining tablespoon oil in a 5- to 6-quart heavy pot over medium heat, stirring frequently, until soft, 8 to 10 minutes. Add garlic, ginger, turmeric, and paprika and cook, stirring, 3 minutes.

Add chicken with any juices from plate, saffron, and 1/2 teaspoon salt to shallot mixture and turn chicken to coat. Add water and bring to a boil, covered, then cook at a bare simmer, covered, 30 minutes.

Turn chicken and add orange preserves, cinnamon stick, thyme, cilantro sprigs, and apricots. Simmer, covered, 10 minutes. Uncover and simmer until chicken is very tender, 10 to 15 minutes more.

Brown pine nuts while chicken cooks:
Heat oil in a small heavy skillet over medium heat until it shimmers, then stir in pine nuts, turmeric, paprika, and cayenne (if using) and cook, stirring frequently, until nuts are lightly browned, 1 to 2 minutes (watch carefully; they burn easily). Transfer to a small bowl.

To serve:
Transfer chicken to a platter and keep warm, covered. If sauce is not thick, boil, stirring occasionally, until reduced to about 1 cup. Discard herb sprigs, cinnamon stick, wings, and backbone. Stir in chopped cilantro and spoon sauce over chicken. Sprinkle with nuts and preserved lemon slices.